Bike to Fitness

Health, Endurnace and Performance

Category Archives: Hobbies

Are You Ready?

My first attempt at creating time lapse photography.  A lot of experimentation with Adobe After Effect and Adobe Premiere.

Specialized 2009 Langster – Tokyo

My birthday gift from my brother.  Retail $800.  Final Sale Price $500.

Sweet paint job!

Langster Tokyo

Geometry Size 58
Seat-Tube Length, B-B Center to Top 540mm
Top-Tube Length, Horizontal 582mm
B-B Drop 67.5mm
Chain-Stay Length 407mm
Seat-Tube Angle 73°
Head-Tube Angle 73°
Fork Rake 43mm
Trail 59mm
Front-Center 610mm
Wheelbase 1008m
Stand-Over Height 808m
Head-Tube Length 205mm
Handle-Bar Width 440mm
Stem Length 110mm
Crank Length 170mm
Seat-Post Length 350mm

Sizes 49-61 *Not all sizes available in all markets
TT is measured horizontally from center of HT to center of ST

Specification  
FRAME Specialized A1 Premium aluminum, fully manipulated tubing, compact design, integrated headset
FORK Specialized FACT carbon, carbon legs, aluminum crown and steerer
HEADSET Specialized Mindset, 1-1/8" integrated threadless, steel cage bearings, 20mm alloy cone w/ 10mm alloy spacer
STEM Specialized Sport, 3D forged alloy, 6 degree rise, 31.8mm clamp
HANDLEBAR SS-Works Track, 31.8mm, 2014 alloy
TAPE Body Geometry cork ribbon
FRONT BRAKE Ultralight dual pivot brakes, Teflon pivots, forged alloy w/ cartridge pads
REAR BRAKE Ultralight dual pivot brakes, Teflon pivots, forged alloy w/ cartridge pads
BRAKE LEVERS Specialized secondary brake levers, 31.8mm clamp, with inner cable compatibility
CASSETTE Shimano SF-MX30 Freewheel, 16t
CHAIN KMC Z-510HX 1 Speed
CRANKSET Sugino Zen Messenger
CHAINRINGS 42t
BOTTOM BRACKET Sealed cartridge, square taper, 68mm x 103mm
RIMS Alex Race 32, sleeve joint, CNC sidewall 32h
FRONT HUB Track, bolt-on w/ track axle nuts, 32h
REAR HUB Track bolt-on w/ track axle nuts, 32h
SPOKES Stainless 14g
FRONT TIRE Specialized Mondo Sport, 700x23c, wire bead, 60TPI, Flak Jacket
REAR TIRES pecialized Mondo Sport, 700x23c, wire bead, 60TPI, Flak Jacket
REAR TIRES Specialized standard presta tube
SADDLE Specialized Comp Road, full padding
SEATPOST Specialized carbon wrapped, two-bolt clamp, 27.2mm
SEAT BINDER Specialized alloy 31.8mm
NOTES Chain stay protector, clear coat, owners manual

Recovery Intervals

  Avg HR BPM
Lap Mile Avg MPH Working Resting
1 1.81 21.7 168 128
2 1.98 23.8 160 132
3 1.99 23.9 169 138

Recovery Intervals Assessment

  Avg HR BPM
Lap Mile Avg MPH Working Resting
1 1.46 17.5 166 130
2 1.50 18.0 164 135
3 1.52 18.2 166 137

Steady State Assessment #2 (5 Weeks Later)

Happy New Year!

Result: Average Heart Rate 145 BPM, Average Speed 15.3 MPH.

15 BPM lower and ~2 MPH faster.  Wooohooo!

2008 Stats

One final ride to bid farewell to 2008 and welcome the new year.  ’08 was a busy year.  I changed role multiple times at work: from relationship manager, to project manager, to program analyst, and now shared services manager for a global cross-sell program.  Business travels, back injury, and a couple of flues had pretty much screwed up my bike season and kept me from racing or participating in any century rides.

Still, I think I had a good year.  Below are some statistics:

  2008 2007
Total Miles 4,750 5,330
Total Time (hh:mm) 309:44 368:58
# of Rides 295 302
Average MPH 15.5 18.1
Average HR (% Max) 76 75
Average Miles/Ride 16.3 18.1

Steady State Assessment

This steady state self-assessment ride is difficult to complete accurately without using stationary bike or a trainer.  In fact, most of the self-assessments are difficult to complete outdoor due to variables such as traffic, wind, etc.  The steady state assessment measures the average heart rate from riding 15 miles at a constant speed.  The average heart rate can be used to evaluate if one’s performance or fitness has improved through the training planning program.

With the purchase of my first resistance trainer, I took my first steady state assessment. I had ridden on the trainer twice, and I was somewhat confident that I can hold 12-13 MPH for about an hour, or slightly over an hour for 15 miles.  Not an easy task, I soon realized.  Trying to hold a constant speed for 15 miles required concentration and smooth peddling stroke.  The goal was not to see how fast I can finish 15 miles.  It was to ride just below my threshold for 15 miles.

Result: Average Heart Rate 160 BPM, Average speed 13.4 MPH

Let see if my performance improves in a month.

Building Aerobic Base

Building a strong base for endurance cycling means spending time training in the aerobic zone during pre-season.  My cycling performance had been disappointing since my last business trip.  I figured it is time to get back to the basic, going back to building the endurance base and be ready for Spring.

I logged a significant percentage of my saddle time through commuting to and back from work.  Riding slow next to, or worse in front of, impatient commuting drivers did not make good combinations.  Naturally, it had been very tempting to speed up with the traffic or to sprint for the next light.  Riding slow required a lot more discipline: not being intimidated or unnerved by the traffic.  For the past 7 days, I had purposely rode only in the aerobic zone.  My body needed to recover from previous Sunday when I rode hard in torching heat.  Periodization worked.  I was able to ride faster with less effort (lower heart rate) this morning compared to similar solo two and a half months ago.

Of course, not having back pain helped.  Thank goodness for physical therapy.

You're welcome. Stop for the next guy.

I had a flat while commuting home last night. "Oh, no. Did I just get a flat," I thought as that familiar sinking, disappointment rose. "No problem. I have a spare tube. This really just a minor inconvenience to have to change a flat."  I got out my tire iron and my spare tube and proceeded to replace the tire in the dark. Of course, Murphy’s Law applied, "if anything can go wrong, it will."  Soon after I started pumping air into the newly replaced tube, I heard the dreadful sound "shhhhhhh".  Now what?  Without extra spare tubes, I’m dead in the water.  I checked the inside of the tire carefully to make there was no sharp object before replacing the spare tube.  Sigh, I called my wife to pick me up.

As I was getting ready to walked back up to the main road to wait for wife, two nice gentlemen rode by and offered their assistance.  Since neither one had an spare 700×23 Presta valve tube, we attempted to patch my spare.  The patch couldn’t stop the leak, and we were out of spare tube and air cartridge.  I resigned to walk back to the main road to wait for my wife.  As I was leaving, I thanked the gentlemen.  They replied, "You are welcome.  Stop for the next guy."

What Are the Advantages of Compact Gearing?

By Richard Cunningham
Road Bike Action

What are the advantages of running compact gearing versus a standard 53 by 39 crankset? My first "real" road bike is a Schwinn Peloton, with SRAM Rival standard cranks and an 11 by 25 cogset. Most people I ride with use compact cranks. Am I at an advantage or a disadvantage?

-Max R. — Atlanta, Georgia

If you climb a lot and have less-than-spectacular fitness, you might be better served with compact gearing. If you time-trial, or spend a lot of time on club rides where you will be in a group and drafting, your taller-geared, standard drivetrain is a better choice.

Generally, compact drivetrains were adopted to offer less-than-professional-level cyclists a lower gear selection in order to make it easier to climb hills without changing the top speed. Originally, compact gearing used 50 by 34 chainrings, with an 11 by 23-tooth cassette.

Compare that with conventional gearing (53 by 39 chainrings and a 12 by 25-tooth cassette) and you may be surprised that, if two cyclists are spinning at 80 revolutions per minute (rpm), the compact rider whizzes by at 28.4 miles per hour (45.8 kilometers per hour) while the standard-geared guy falls behind at 27.8 miles per hour (44.5 kph). Who would have thunk it?

The compact geared rider gets a second advantage, too. When climbing in the 23-tooth cog, he or she climbs at 9.2 miles an hour—a slightly slower, easier pace—while the standard-gearing rider can’t go any slower than 9.8 miles an hour (15.7 kph) to maintain 80 rpm with a larger, 25-tooth cog. Put the 11 by 25-tooth cassette on the compact drive bike and its rider climbs even easier; at a leisurely 8.5 miles an hour (13.7 kph) at the same 80 rpm. 

But, because your Schwinn has a 53-tooth chainring and a SRAM cassette with an 11-tooth small cog, if you have the gas to spin 80 rpm in the big ring, you can motor past the 27.6-miles-per-hour (44.5 kph), 12-tooth tough guys at a blistering 30.1 miles per hour (48.5 kph).

Now, forget all that numerical nonsense, because the truth is; it really doesn’t make a difference what your gearing is until you reach the extreme high or low gear. Most enthusiasts ride near 20 miles an hour, which puts them in the big chainring and somewhere the middle of the cassette.

Few solo riders can stay on top of a compact 50 by 11 gear on level ground, and only the world’s most fit can spin a 53 by 11 for any length of time, so the choice between compact and standard gearing comes down to how much you want to suffer on the climbs. For most of us, this means that compact gearing is best.

Factoid: Compact gearing was originally a trick that mountain bike component makers used to reduce the size of the chainrings and spider of a cheap, heavy crankset in order to reduce its weight.

Tip: If you want a Ph.D. course in bicycle gearing, visit Sheldon Brown’s website.

Road Bike Action is an enthusiast magazine focusing on new products, bikes, training and the transformative culture of bicycles. Check us out at www.roadbikeaction.com.

E-mail your questions or what’s been on your mind while you’ve been riding these days to: AskRC@roadbikeaction.com